Just got an e-mail from Tamotsu Nakamura with the latest (December 2017) issue of the Asian Alpine E-news with Derek Buckle’s article about our climbs in the East Karakoram. Also, nice to read about my Romanian friends’, Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean’s climbs in the Nubra Valley.
Asian Alpine E-news issue no 16
It was a great pleasure to listen to Bernadette McDonald’s lecture yesterday. I really enjoyed reading her books – “Freedom Climbers” and more recently “Art of Freedom” so I was really glad to meet this Canadian writer at the Alpine Club in London.
My new project is taking some more realistic shape! I’m really looking forward to take some of my climbing friends to the Tatra Mountains…
This was my second visit to this “ice climbing Mekka”. I had a great time with my old friend Efe Tunc. We had few days of skiing and ice climbing. This time, the highlight of the trip was the impressive, 7-pitch “Fabrikkfossen” (WI3). I was really pleased that Efe eventually recovered from his injuries. Continue reading “RJUKAN, NORWAY 18-26.02.2017”
The Alpine Clubs meet in Romania was excellent – beautiful and not so well known mountains, perfect weather and great company. I managed to climb several short ice routes, 2-day alpine-style ascent on Negoiu (2535 m a.s.l.) and interesting 3-pitch mixed route on Geamul Sudic peak. Continue reading “FAGARAS MOUNTAINS, ROMANIA 20-29.01.2017”
I made it to the front cover of the “Calanques et Montagnes” (newsletter of the Club Alpin Francais Marseille Provence)! Thanks a lot to my climbing partner and photographer Remi Songeon.
The 5th annual meet of the Alpine Club and Club Alpin Francais Marseille in L’Argentiere-la-Bessee.
A couple of easy alpine routes in the Swiss Alps with Efe Tunc and his friends – Gary and Alan.
This time I decided to concentrate more on trail running and photography. The results you can see below.
Winter climbing in the Polish Tatra Mountains with Ania Wojtiuk, Jacek Czajka and Krzysztof Treter. During 9 days we managed to climb some classic routes around Hala Gasienicowa: Klis, Srodkowe Zebro Granatow, Zebro Czecha followed by traverse of Granaty, Zebro Rzepeckich and Polnocny Filar Swinicy. Excellent weather, great company and beautiful mountains – what else could I ask for?
Not particularly successful trip – due to poor weather we spent most of the time either waiting in Torino hut or drinking beer in Chamonix. We only had a 1-day “weather window” during which we attempted to climb the Chere couloir (D, II, 4) on Triangle du Tacul. Unfortunately, navigation error meant that we started climbing a wrong route – Perroux gully (TD-, III, 4+, M5). Not knowing the route, we decided to abseil after four pitches. Later on, we received the Chelmsford Mountaineering Club’s 2014 Epic Award for this “adventure”.
On the bright side – we managed to do 2 pleasant rock routes:
RAFAL MALCZYK 