Just got an e-mail from Tamotsu Nakamura with the latest (December 2017) issue of the Asian Alpine E-news with Derek Buckle’s article about our climbs in the East Karakoram. Also, nice to read about my Romanian friends’, Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean’s climbs in the Nubra Valley.

Asian Alpine E-news issue no 16



It was a great pleasure to listen to Bernadette McDonald’s lecture yesterday. I really enjoyed reading her books – “Freedom Climbers” and more recently “Art of Freedom” so I was really glad to meet this Canadian writer at the Alpine Club in London.

Bernadette McDonald “Art of Freedom”

TATRY 2015

Winter climbing in the Polish Tatra Mountains with Ania Wojtiuk, Jacek Czajka and Krzysztof Treter. During 9 days we managed to climb some classic routes around Hala Gasienicowa: Klis, Srodkowe Zebro Granatow, Zebro Czecha followed by traverse of Granaty, Zebro Rzepeckich and Polnocny Filar Swinicy. Excellent weather, great company and beautiful mountains – what else could I ask for?

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Not particularly successful trip – due to poor weather we spent most of the time either waiting in Torino hut or drinking beer in Chamonix. We only had a 1-day “weather window” during which we attempted to climb the Chere couloir (D, II, 4) on Triangle du Tacul. Unfortunately, navigation error meant that we started climbing a wrong route – Perroux gully (TD-, III, 4+, M5). Not knowing the route, we decided to abseil after four pitches. Later on, we received the Chelmsford Mountaineering Club’s 2014 Epic Award for this “adventure”.

On the bright side – we managed to do 2 pleasant rock routes:

  • SE Ridge on Aiguille de L’Index (AD);
  • Voie Caline (AD-).

Continue reading “THE ALPS 2014”