Just got an e-mail from Tamotsu Nakamura with the latest (December 2017) issue of the Asian Alpine E-news with Derek Buckle’s article about our climbs in the East Karakoram. Also, nice to read about my Romanian friends’, Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean’s climbs in the Nubra Valley.

Asian Alpine E-news issue no 16



It was a great pleasure to listen to Bernadette McDonald’s lecture yesterday. I really enjoyed reading her books – “Freedom Climbers” and more recently “Art of Freedom” so I was really glad to meet this Canadian writer at the Alpine Club in London.

Bernadette McDonald “Art of Freedom”

SWANAGE 10-11.6.2017

Another excellent weekend. This time we were supposed to go to the Climbers’ Club’s meet in North Wales but due to bad weather in the North we ended up in Dorset. On Saturday we visited Guillemot Ledge where we climbed 3 quality 2-pitch routes: “Tensor II” (VS, 5a), “The Spook” (E1, 5b), both from the Rockfax’s Top-50 list and “Sapphire” (E1, 5b). On Sunday, the only place that was dry enough to climb was the Subluminal. I decided to have an easy day leading “Station Road” (HS, 4b) and “Back Street” (VS, 4c). My climbing partner (Kat) never takes it east though… This time she led Joker” (VS, 5a), “Graunchy Grippers” (E1, 5b) and “Republic” (E2, 6a).

WYE VALLEY 3-4.6.2017

Had a really good day at Shorn Cliff. Kat led “Organ Grinder” (HVS, 5a), “Emotional Dyslexia” (HVS, 5a) and “Renaissance” (E1, 5b). I added “Temporary Truce” (VS, 4c), “Traitor” (E1, 5a) and “Motion Pictures” (E1, 5b).